CORBET , P. S. 1962 . We were near the convergence of a great inrushing of wings and movement, coming from all points on the compass, like a black hole drawing everything toward itself. To address some of these problems, international treaties — such as the ‘Convention on Migratory Species’ that India has recently ratified — have been created to ensure protection for migratory birds. Instead, hour after hour we’d seen little in the air except a few swallows. “I don’t know. At this same time of year, just after the monsoon, there is a great stirring underground as countless subterranean termite colonies prepare for the mating season. There must be a special hell reserved for these bastards.”. The females and juveniles are very different, their white undersides barred with black and lightly washed with buff on the chest, the face distinctly “mustached” after the fashion of most falcons. The peak of the falcon migration neatly coincides with the seasonal, post-monsoon opening of Kaziranga National Park in neighboring Assam state, a UNESCO World Heritage site that attracts visitors from around the world. Birds can fall prey to predators, fly into wind turbines, or die of starvation as their food sources decline due to habitat loss and pesticide abuse. Studies show they cover upwards of 20,000 km every year. Every time a crow would caw, there would be an ‘explosion’ of falcons as they took to the air, settling down again once the jungle crows had moved on to harangue another flock. “Maybe twice that,” Catherine said in a hoarse whisper. Today, they are overwhelmingly Baptists, inhabiting a defiantly un-Indian part of India and trying for decades to break away on their own. In Doyang, the Amur flacons were not poached for livelihood, but to be eaten as a local delicacy. Ali & Ripley (1987) and Naoroji (2007) both noted that the birds fly across China to India and Bangladesh in the first stage of their massive flight across the ocean to Africa. The Amur Falcon is a complete, long distance, trans-equatorial migrant (Bildstein 2006). Bano is a former journalist and a managing trustee of the Nagaland Wildlife and Biodiversity Conservation Trust. By 9 am many birds had flown away, most likely to forage for insects. The only way to know for sure is if the Amur falcons continue to turn up each winter for years to come. The Amur Falcon is a small raptor and weighs only about 150 to 200 grams. A closer look with a pair of binoculars, revealed thousands of birds perched on trees all around us, in addition to those in the air. This is where Bano Haralu, a member of the local community, came into the picture. Male (left) and female (right) Amur falcons vary slightly in appearance, with females displaying a mix of black and white plumage on their chest. From the Summer 2018 issue of Living Bird magazine. The flock in the sky was about 100 feet tall and 200 feet wide, and our conservative estimate of their numbers was around 1.5 lakh. But I do wish I could eat one!” He laughed nervously. “I witnessed a massive swarm of these little falcons flying into the South African town of Cradock to roost for the night,” one commenter wrote on YouTube. “Um, one, two thousand,” one of the young men replied. This means the falcons must beat their wings continuously on their transoceanic trip, which may take them four or five days. Far from the sky-darkening multitudes we’d expected, he said, there were hardly any birds on the roosts at all. “It was 2010 that I first came to this area with some birder friends, in the month of April. As the light grew, so did the number of birds, the whisper of their wings rising now to an omnipresent swish, like fast-flowing water. I slept poorly—partly because the Naga don’t use mattresses, and my wooden-plank bed had just a thin cotton blanket for a cushion, but mostly because the whole effort to come to Pangti now seemed to have been an enormous waste. The Amur Falcon is a fascinating migratory raptor. Observing the falcon swarm in action was riveting, as was watching the flock disappear: In barely 10 minutes all the birds in the sky had settled down for the night. Then he was gone—someone had spied a Philippine Brown Shrike along the edge of the lake. We were by now skirting the Doyang Reservoir, a hydroelectric impoundment along which the birds normally roost by the tens of thousands. We pulled into Pangti just as the sun dropped below the horizon. The people of Nagaland are a Tibeto-Burmese culture who lead a subsistence lifestyle—one that until recently included the mass-trapping of Amur Falcons. Yet within a year or so, the community decides to embrace protection and preservation; the killing grounds become a sanctuary, the trappers become guards and wardens, and residents of the village prepare to welcome birders. It is a long distance, trans-equatorial migratory bird travelling, … Songbirds flitted about in the failing light—White-browed Scimitar-Babblers, all lanky and brown; pairs of Red-vented Bulbuls; flocks of hyperactive Yellow-bellied Fairy-Fantails. Photos: Derek Keats –CC BY 2.0. During migration, Amur falcon cross eastern and southern Asia, including China, Bangladesh, Bhutan, Nepal, Lao, Myanmar, Thailand, Pakistan and India. For Pangti as a whole, the end of falcon-trapping meant foregoing about 3.5 million rupees annually, a huge sum in such a remote, cash-strapped area, especially because many people used that money to pay their children’s school fees. The relative calm of the roosting falcons was frequently disrupted by the odious call of the eastern jungle crow. News of this poaching made a global splash and international conservation organisations upped the ante to ensure the birds were not harmed at their staging site in Nagaland. Hiking down to the reservoir, we passed trails pushed through the dense vegetation—the paths of wild elephants, perhaps the same ones we’d heard trumpeting across the lake that morning. No one spoke; this time not from disappointment, but from awe. In fact, Pangti and its neighboring villages agreed to abandon the hunt in surprisingly short order. By and large, bird migration continues to be a mystery to nature enthusiasts and scientists. We returned to the watchtower that evening to see the birds coming in to roost. And so in late October and early November, the migrant falcons pause for some weeks in Nagaland. The former trappers and hunters formed the Amur Falcon Roost Area Union, which posted guards, certified guides, and worked with the landowners of the roosts to build viewing towers like the one we’d visited. It also is unusual in migrating over sea and migrates during the night (Meyburg 2010). Conservationists started eco-clubs for children in Pangti and surrounding communities and gave “Amur Ambassador Passports” to those who pledged to protect the birds. (And for good reason: A week later, looking out on Kaziranga’s grassy floodplain, I counted 59 Indian rhinoceroses in a single, wide sweep of my binoculars, as wild elephants, buffalo, wild hogs, and swamp deer grazed and Pallas’s Fish-Eagles soared overhead.) It was clear that government authorities would no longer turn a blind eye to the killing, which was officially illegal. One of them was Nchumo Odyuo, a slender, soft-spoken man who is a neighbor of the Tsopoes, a former trapper now active in the protective union. The act of migration is a delicate and synchronised performance, involving numerous players. So far it has radio-tagged about 15 Amur falcons to study migration pathways and environmental patterns. Amur Falcon © Shutterstock Abu Dhabi, 10 November 2020 - In October each year, communities in the mountainous parts of Northeast India, gather in anticipation of the arrival of a small grey bird, the Amur Falcon, which annually migrates over 30,000 km. Researchers are only now exploring how long the falcons stay and how much weight they gain while there. As interest in the Amur Falcon spreads throughout northeast India, reports have emerged of other major roost sites in neighboring states such as Assam and Manipur—and local movements in those places, as well, to end hunting and to protect and celebrate the raptors. And that’s only what’s in the air.”. In 2012, an investigation revealed that thousands of Amur falcons had been trapped and sold for local consumption in Nagaland. The Amur Falcons are birds of prey, about 28-31cm and weigh around 100 grams. Today, they are proud that Amur falcons choose to visit them every year. When their breeding season is over they comes out of far east Asia and cross India, further cross Arabian Sea and go up to southern tip of Africa. Amur falcons (Falco amurensis) are swift, agile, and little larger in size than the common blue rock pigeon. Sometimes a flock would dive close to the watchtower, and we could hear the crisp beats of their pointed wings. For the next hour, the falcons would rise from the roost in a great tide, enveloping us in a chaos of wings and movement, then settle back down again until the air was empty. Amur Falcon (Falco amurensis) is a small raptor (bird of prey) of the falcon family. Surely we’d misunderstood him, but no. Amur falcons, capable of flying the longest distances in one go, have begun to arrive in Manipur’s Tamenglong district following their routine annual migration course, officials said on Thursday. The campaign managed to stop the hunting of the falcons. Despite this, they remained perched with a sense of tranquillity, while thousands of falcons continued to paint the sky with their flight. This is a lifetime experience. The combination of more rigorous law enforcement and pervasive education campaigns has proven so effective that conservationists were unaware of even a single bird being trapped during the past several migration seasons. Males have a sooty, grey plumage, white under-wings, and rufous-coloured feathers on their thighs. It was a jaw-dropping tale, with reports of over 100,000 birds seen at a time at the newly created Doyang Reservoir. One cannot possibly fathom the hazards of long-distance migration. “They taste very good.”, “It was a huge loss of money,” Bano admitted, but some in the village saw the potential for tourism. Later, in Pangti itself, “We saw birds in almost every home,” she said. Once or twice we were startled by the explosive warning “bark” of the small forest deer known as muntjacs off in the blackness. During our stay a few small groups from elsewhere in India—in twos and threes, and most (to judge from their lack of equipment) not birders—showed up at the watchtowers. We asked them, are the falcons here? “There were tens of thousands and I stood in awe. In most wild parts of the world, conservationists abhor new roads. But nothing like this,” he said, gesturing to the multitudes of falcons emerging from their roosts. In the case of Amur falcons, it was education that helped the birds fly safely through India, but there is no guarantee that the falcons will receive the same level of protection in other parts of their journey. Traveling to see the greatest birding spectacle on earth is not for the faint of heart, as roads into the region traverse treacherous mountain passes prone to landslides. All ages and sexes have bright carmine legs and feet. Binoculars revealed what our eyes alone could not yet see—that the dimly lit air was filled with tens of thousands of falcons, rising in the gloom like a dense insect swarm from their roost a few hundred meters away and spreading out overhead. “The birding in Bangalore is incredible. In some areas, wind turbines, pitted as green energy, are set up in critical habitats causing injury to and, death of birds. © RoundGlass 2020, India Villagers were able to sell four of the falcons for 100 rupees, Bano said, a little more than $1.50—a sizable amount, since just eight falcons would equal roughly a day’s wages in the region, and trappers were selling thousands a day at the peak of the season. +91-11 39585644 In Asia, the Amur falcon can be found around the Amur river region, in southeastern Russia, northern China and eastern Mongolia, sometimes all the way east to the Korean peninsula. Nchumo and his wife have several children at home, and two older kids at boarding school, the only choice for more than a grade-school education. These images were taken at their wintering grounds in Kruger National Park, South Africa. The quality of not only the Rockjumper guides but the local guides as well was first class. The Amur falcon is a small raptor of the falcon family. A male Amur Falcon perches on a stump, waiting for an opportunity to hunt. But the fishermen also noticed something they’d never seen before—that the falcons were now gathering in incredible numbers each autumn night in small groves of trees along the lake, then fanning out to hunt termites and other insects during the day. These are seasoned travellers that journey annually, from northern China all the way to Somalia, Kenya, and South Africa. Worse, the skies around us were largely empty of birds—which was more than a typical birding-trip disappointment. New Delhi: Flying thousands of kilometres from their breeding grounds in northern China and eastern Mongolia, nearly a million Amur falcons, a small grey bird of prey, regularly descend across northeast India for nearly a month in October to feed and rest before continuing their journey to southern Africa. That was the stick, but in the months that followed, conservationists presented the carrot to village leaders as they described the global migration of the falcons—and the worldwide revulsion expressed at the slaughter in Nagaland. But when Catherine raised her binoculars to peer through the murky twilight, she gasped. I had been lured here by news stories over the previous couple of years about Amur Falcons in Nagaland that seemed almost too good to be true anyway: Conservationists stumble upon a previously unknown concentration of raptors that is arguably the largest in the world, only to find that local hunters are slaughtering the birds at a wildly unsustainable rate. Hot water, instant coffee, and tea were waiting for us at 3:00 a.m. when we climbed stiffly from bed. Amur falcon feeding mechanism : The Amur falcons feed mostly on insects, mainly mid-air. None of this obscured the fact that the community had taken a financial hit when it suspended the hunt. Conservationists worried that they may begin to avoid this place entirely, thus having to stopover at areas with suboptimal conditions for roosting and food availability. Kevin was glued to the viewfinder of his camera, making the most of the growing light; Peter just stared, wide-eyed. The small birds hardly put up a fight and were no match for the skilled poachers. New fields on the mountain slopes were less productive, and wild elephants often trampled the crops. The primary beneficiaries now are guides like Nchumo; landowners like Nchumo’s uncle, on whose land the watchtower sits; and families like the Tsopoes who had enough extra cash to invest into creating homestay operations. Along with Conservation India, she led a campaign to stop the rampant poaching and to sensitise the local community about the monetary benefits of being nature guides and homestay owners. They turned out to be plucked falcons. Amur falcons roost on trees in the surrounding hills. Can we succeed in doing so? Photo: Seshadri KS. TERMS OF USE But as we’d found out, just getting to Pangti was not for the faint of heart, and not surprisingly, tourists have been thin on the land. They migrate to Nagaland to fill up their stomach. But as the daughter of a decorated government official and a noted social activist, she knew how to get results. Bulletin of the British Ornithologists' Club 121 : 222 – 230 . Along with Abidur and our drivers, with me for the trek was my friend Kevin Loughlin, owner of Wildside Nature Tours, who was exploring the feasibility of bringing American tourists to Pangti to see the falcons. The birds travel all the way from high up in Eastern Asia to Africa every year. #Due to the annual migration of one million Amur Falcons in this region, which of the following has earned the nickname of the "Falcon Capital of … They visit India while doing so. The village sat at the peak of a broad, defensible ridge—typical of the Naga, a Tibeto-Burmese culture whose tribes were traditionally headhunters, each village warring constantly with its neighbors. Losing the money from selling falcons was hard, he told me one morning as we watched hundreds of Amurs flying in to perch around the edges of a small teak plantation, some miles from the main roost; the birds preened in the sun, and occasionally dropped to the ground to snag large mantises or grasshoppers. Enabling Holistic Wellbeing & Meaningful Living, Enabling Wholistic Wellbeing & Meaningful Living, PRIVACY POLICY Cover the key birding sites in the Khonoma area, the Naga Hills and foothills of the Patkai range on our three-center tour. In 2012, a Naga conservationist named Bano Haralu, along with several colleagues from Conservation India, confirmed rumors that Amur Falcons had begun to gather each night by the hundreds of thousands in densely packed roosts along the Doyang Reservoir, with many more in neighboring areas—very likely the bulk of the entire global population. Photos: Seshadri KS Amur Falcons (Falco amurensis) are one of 69 species of raptors in India. Yes that’s the answer! Raptors returning to their roosting sites at dusk seeking safety in numbers. Weighing 160–200 g, Amur Falcon is a small bird of prey and is a long distance, trans-equatorial migrant (Bildstein 2006), travelling from eastern Asia all the way to southern Africa and back every year. It was a little after 3 am and the forest was shrouded in darkness. We had no idea how much farther ahead lay our destination, a village known as Pangti, or whether we’d actually reach it before nightfall. Tourism is building slowly, as we saw. Then Conservation India and the local wildlife trust launched a massive, multipronged community educational campaign with funds, materials, and support from BirdLife International, the Wildlife Conservation Society, the venerable Bombay Natural History Society, and other conservation groups. It was perhaps the largest non-human congregation anywhere on the Indian subcontinent. Together they convinced the tribal elders that the falcons needed to be protected, and the elders agreed. The news, and gruesome videos of the killing, catch fire online and ricochet around the globe. I struck up a conversation with one of them, Ulhas Anand, and discovered we had several mutual birding friends from his time living in Philadelphia. The ride to the main roost site down by the reservoir took 45 minutes, and given the hour and the mood, no one had much energy or inclination to talk. Photo: Seshadri KS. It is believed to be possibly the biggest falcon roosts in the world. Flying thousands of kilometres from their breeding grounds in northern China and eastern Mongolia, nearly a million Amur falcons, a small grey bird of prey, regularly descend across northeast India for nearly a month in October to feed and rest before continuing their journey to southern Africa. Initially birds were thought to use the Earth’s magnetic field to navigate, but there is increasing evidence that their sensory abilities allow them to navigate by smell, and by variation in light levels. Amur Falcons roost on tall trees in Doyang (left). By 2003, fishermen were shinnying up the roost trees in late afternoon, tying their monofilament nets among the branches and returning in the morning to retrieve hundreds of falcons. Former poachers became protectors, and began hosting birdwatchers like us in their village homes. Although the Naga live in hilltop communities, their terraced fields, orchards, and rice paddies lie primarily in the valleys—in the case of Pangti, along the narrow flood plain of the Doyang River. The village of Pangti overlooks the remote hills and mountains of Nagaland in northeastern India. A Naga herself, Bano left the region as a young woman, earned a graduate degree in New Delhi, and became a respected television journalist specializing in India’s northeast. It was cool, with a light breeze and no stars, but soon I could see the silhouette of a 40-feet-tall wooden watchtower, newly built for visiting birders, which rose against the slightly lighter sky as we emerged along the edge of the lake. The falcons flew with smooth, languid wingbeats, mostly gliding toward the roost trees, the morning’s shivering noise of tens of thousands of rising wings replaced now with an almost eerie silence. “Another amazing trip with Rockjumper. For that, Kevin needed willing guinea pigs—me; Catherine Hamilton, a California bird artist whose participation was underwritten by Zeiss Sports Optics; and birders Peter Trueblood of California and his cousin-in-law Bruce Evans of Maryland, who thanks to a visa snafu would be joining us the following day. Trapping and selling falcons had become a universal cottage industry. They see the awful condition of Nagaland’s roads–often cited as the worst in India—as a major hurdle to conservation, and the tourism that could support it. For now, the falcons are safe—not only in Pangti, but across Nagaland. We were sitting in a jeep, groggy-eyed, as we drove through Doyang Reservoir in Nagaland — a state, rich in culture and biodiversity. Within minutes the sky was full of birds, turning our disappointment into joy. They had survived the day, only to take to the air again the next morning and prepare to make a long over-sea journey across the equator into Africa. Haha ! 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