It has been about three years since I painted my kitchen cabinets in Ben Moore white dove advance (actually we had to custom mix to match white dove as the formula wasn’t right. It is very important to note that the product does not cure to a hard, enamel-like finish for 30 days. Do I need to do anything special with the oak grain before painting? Sanded first,primer then sanded first coat of paint light sand then final paint took forever but look like brand new. First is that normal wall paint has a full cure time of 30 days. I agree! Built closet drawers and shelves 6 months ago and used Advance. -prime cabinet doors and drawer faces with two coats of RustOleum Universal Bonding Spray Primer. I love both advance and proclassic the finish is amazing when sprayed and prepped correctly, i don’t ever water down the paint, this paints dont needed, I recently tried ppgs breakthrough and like how fast it tacks up but the sheen levels are not equal and only come in satin or gloss which bugs me since I use semi gloss for most of my finishes. I am in a dry climate and humidity can cause problems for Advance paint. Like I talked about at the beginning of this post, I’m trying to eliminate topcoats in order to save me time (2-3 coats of paint plus 2-3 coats of poly is time consuming!). I do think there are other paints out there that better suited for furniture. The step is priming. I notice there alot of conversation on painting furniture with wall paint. The author had very different experiences with a light color and a deep color. Gotta degrease and sand with 150 grit before priming and always wipe clean with denatured alcohol! We’ve had no problems with this paint like you and others describe. The specs say that you should wait 16 hours to recoat in mild conditions (warm temps and low humidity). I mixed a little water and paint in a separate container, not in the can. This furniture grade paint is a 100% water-dispersible alkyd, developed with proprietary new resins that keep VOCs* low even after tinting. It looked sprayed and I had no drips (I”m a meticulous painter). Found your blog while looking for pointers to help with finishing this piece nicely. It might even work for the frame of a piece of furniture (sides, legs, and drawer dividers) since those areas don’t see high use like furniture tops. Additionally, all of the trim work in my house is painted in semi-gloss, same white/off white mixture. sanding, priming, sanding, priming, cleaning, etc etc then several thin coats of Advance spaced many hours apart. Benjamin Moore’s Advance is a low VOC Water Reducible Alkyd. I am a painting contractor, I DO NOT BELIVE IN A SELF PRIMING MATERIALS, alway prime regardless, also when you are dealing with deep colors, it will take at least three coats, so try to spray very light coats and wait over night in between, deep colors take longer to dry. Other people may have opinions and experiences that differ from my own and that’s great. Thin coats and letting it cure for a week between coats and it still never fully cured. Try milk paint with a water born urethane in your desirable sheen. The can was shaken when I first got it, but that was over a month ago. Been reading the comments here and saw the one about Emtech 6500 (from Target Coatings). I just used this Advance paint because the sales girl recommended it.. I would consider an oil based paint (unless it’s white/light because it could yellow). Shiela – did you prime with Zinsser BIN or 123? I tried the newer California Ultra (company who bought Muralo out) and I feel unfortunately it’s not quite as good as Muralo, but still pretty good. I built my daughter a dollhouse bookcase as well as re-finished an old family dresser and nightstand for her. Using this paint was a nightmare! It’s just implying that the truth is that it doesn’t work. 2. A few years ago I used Advanced on primed kitchen cabinets (super smooth crappy laminated dark wood cabinets that were not sanded but just primed with ziesner smart prime I believe). Distributed in the UK by Shaw Paints Ltd. Christmas & New Year Opening Hours & Delivery Times. Contrast that to a dry to touch time of 2 hours or recoat in 4. Trust me this was a very valuable lesson. And it absolutely paid off. I have added quite a few different tints to the GF paint in the past, to make my own colors. I have had very good success painting furniture in the past using flat latex acrylic and a poly topcoat but thought, like you, that eliminating the topcoat would be convenient. If you have further questions about the paint I did not cover leave them in a comment. It does seem to be quite durable and non-sticky once it cures. I let it cure for 24 hours before lighting sanding. unit to match . waited 3 days or so before I reattached the doors and drawer fronts. I sanded (it was an antique) primed with an oil based primer and painted with a sprayer SW paint, waiting 24 hours between coats and sealing with polycrylic. It can cover a wall or ceiling a wall in 2 coats or less and looks amazing once the paint has fully dried. Like clarification on your procedure for painting furniture. I did it in the color greyhound by Benjamin Moore. I listened but hoped those things were not true for everyone. . the first primer coat looked good the 2nd coat left sreaks, probably my fault trying to smooth out the primer by just one more stroke. Benjamin Moore Advance over oil trim. Order these brands by 9am for afternoon collection at Lymington or New Milton. don’t know why?) Well…fast forward to exactly 2 years later and there are cracks through all three layers of paint on practically every cabinet door in various spots. I live in Michigan. At our local Benjamin Moore paint store (which I absolutely LOVE—I call in my order ahead of time and it’s ready for pick up!) I’m currently looking at Hollandlac for kitchen cabinets. An acrylic with high quality topcoat would be good too, just don’t cheap out. Most had one coat of primer, 2-3 coats of paint. Advance is ideal for going over alkyd or an easy to use oil based product. Love to know what you found words best. 4. it’s not a race.. take your time and don’t rush. Added)a clear base. 2k Polyurethane, pigmented Conversion Varnish or the like. So I tried using a fiber roller and got the same thing. What are you implying when you say top coat? I’ve been receiving emails almost daily about my opinion of this paint now that I’ve used it a few times and lived with the paint on pieces. Trim paint IS NOT for fine furniture or anything else that gets constant use. BM Advanced was a terrible choice for my kitchen cabinets. I need to fix all of the cabinets and have no idea whether to repaint with oil, to try to fix with advance only to be disappointed again for an effort wasted, or to burn down the kitchen and move. Some added benefits – there have been a couple places that got scratched… from pointy objects. Since this post I have used Advance in Satin on interiors doors, trim and laundry room cabinets. Please read that post here as a follow up to this post.****. 6 months later and I have nicks and dings almost anywhere that sees regular use (silverware drawer, glasses cabinet). It doesn’t appear to have bubbles in it when I pour it into the tray. In some cases the paint seemed like it was a great option, and other times it didn’t provide the quality I wanted. Then, dings started showing in any places where there was human contact. But these stand up to wear and cleaning amazingly well. I googled reviews and your review pops right up. The amount of pigment in the paint affects the cure time and the darker the pigment the longer it is. When it came time to paint the BM salesrep recommend the Advanced paint. Have been a painter for over 30 years and have painted hundreds of cabinet doors and drawers using sherwin williams , never had any problems. I’m really sick of having to sand off the bubbles and repaint. In my experience, it’s not hard to apply, but it does have things you need to take into consideration that you don’t need to worry about with regular paints. Wiped down and let dry, then brushed on Stix primer. I took the plunge and bought one gallon of off-the-shelf white in high gloss. The drying and then full cure time just takes too long for both the labor end and also the time the client will have to wait before using the bookcases…. It is VERY important to use all products recommended and as directed but, once that is done you will find the resale value of EVERY piece you sell can be increased by 10 to 15% just from the look of the finish alone. I painted our kitchen cabinets with Advance and love this paint. If you have an opinion on this please fire away – thanks, Suzanne. I am going to use General Finishes top coat. Their is a learning curve both for spraying and brushing and directions should be followed about curing times etc. The paint and poly dry at different speeds so uncured paint can shrink and cause your poly to craze. I am a paint contractor I’m Nashvill Tn. Comparatively, at Sherwin-Williams, a gallon of their comparable cabinet paint costs $83.49 and a quart costs $32.59. You have to follow the instructions on the technical data sheet available on Benjamin Moore website. So upset. I even on personal furniture items put it on over oil based paint and poly with only a light scuff sand of the poly and not sanding oil at all and it stuck 100% perfect and was rock hard after curing. -Third step, when the primer has dried (4-6 hours) is to do another light scuff sand to rough up the surface again to give the Advance something to stick to. I have used the Advance paint on my last project. https://www.targetcoatings.com/product/emtech-em6500-wb-bright-white-pastel-lacquer/, weather/humidity (both when the paint is applied and as it cures), sheen (lower sheen may be less tacky than high gloss), color? NO, not the insets, the edges where the outside frame of the doors are joined. primed with Advance primer – I used a 2″ angled brush and the velour 4″ roller as recommended by the BM employee. Just put on the first coat (I learned the hard way that Advance needs to be back-brushed to take out any bubbles left by the roller, even a nice Purdy 1/4″ nap left tons of bubbles), waiting a day before hitting it with some scour pads and putting the second coat on, will see how it goes! It seems to be holding up very well. The cabinets remained slightly tacky for a few weeks, but they finally dried fully after about 30-45 days (moving the doors to an air-conditioned room helped). Still bubbles. The BM was tacky and too FOREVER to dry, lint kept sticking to it, etc. smooth and although less thick than Impervo it had pretty good leveling. Again, went on easily and, so far, has done very well. After painting the Salsa buffet, I was no longer a big fan of Advance. I will say, richer colors such as oranges, reds, blues and purples take much longer to cure between coats due to the pigments (this is true with any paints) So, it’s not surprising that your white painted project acted differently to the red project. Copyright © Benjamin Moore - Beacon Heights Paint and Design 2019. Especially outside. Highly resistant to moisture, it is ideal for furniture and decorative features, curing to a hard, durable finish. It is not nearly as durable as I have heard it should be, either. The paint remained tacky for days, and I had to wait a week to flip the cabinet doors over to paint the other side without damaging the paint job on the first side. The amount added varies by manufacturer. (saturation/pigment concentration). 100% better. A lot of the time if its old furniture or could be lead so if you thimk it’s painted before 1978 do a lead test. This medium is made to not dry out, in the machines they’re dispensed from. Hi Reeves, I agree with you 250% on General Finishes “milk” paint for durability. Isn’t milk paint kind of transparent? The entire project was a LOT of work but I loved doing it because it was for my daughter. People don’t go through and read everything in the review, they don’t usually have the patience. This post is a follow up to a post/review I did last year on Benjamin Moore Advance paint. Ultimately, I would say this paint is not best for furniture. I’m skeptical that Sherwin Williams products are any better. Based on everything I’ve read as of know – I’m going to pick up some more of it. I’ve only gently stirred it since then. 2nd one medium for mid-tones What if you are looking for a paint that isn’t transparent? My first experience was pretty good and so a few months later I purchased a difference color for another furniture project. BM Advance Spraying with Airless Sprayer I'm just finishing spraying my cabinets white - total reface from oak. I prime and paint two coats each side I sand primer and the 1st coat of paint with – fine sanding block lightly and wipe with denatured alcohol best paint I’ve ever used! These were some factory primed MDF doors on a customer’s job done with Muralo Ultra High Gloss and simply rolled on with a microfiber roller. ... Little Greene, Mylands, Paint Library, Benjamin Moore, Zinsser colours and Rust-Oleum colours are tinted at Ferndown. I don’t think that Pro Classic can be mixed in dark colors because it doesn’t come in a deep base or something like that which is why they gave me the all surface enamel . As I am trying to do away with topcoats I have been trying oil paints. The based cabinets were painted with a foam roller and brush and the doors and drawer fronts were sprayed. Let it dry for an hour before trying to paint again. When it comes to an item, like furniture, that sees more wear, a durable finish is needed. With Muralo Ultra it did in fact dry as hard as oil, but was a standard 4 hour dry time paint, with only 2-4 days or so to cure to rock hard. It absolutely shows no brush marks. Many painters use Advance for interior trim work in houses where extended cure times would be a major problem. They still look like they did when I finished painting them. wiped off dust. Spray prime, sand, then 3 coats. Will adhere to oils sets fast easy to to apply and drys extremely hard. Please let me know. Moreover, the paint is peeling. Hale navy color and very slippery. I vacuumed it after sanding, then wiped it down well with a lint-free cloth, even using alcohol to make sure it’s clean. I end up using KILZ primer on some of them. It’s an off-white shade (half white, half linen-white blend) and have had no problems with it. Sorry about that experience. So the million dollar question, what would you recommend? Benjamin Moore’s Advance Interior Paint is their specialized paint for baseboards, trim, doors, crown molding, furniture and cabinetry. No humidity here. I think a topcoat might help with my two biggest problems and concerns about this paint – curing and durability. spraying was super simple and covered well. Advance is no bueno. I am currently using advance in satin. I primed with kilz water based stain blocking primer. Im worried that it will never dry.. Use a shellac based primer for a great finish. Highly resistant to moisture, it is ideal for trim, doors and walls that need to be cleaned often. Hi, It is interesting that when I painted my kitchen cupboards in our trailer the Advance paint went on beautifully and so now I am trying to paint some furniture. I’ve used SW Pro-Classic with a topcoat (it does need one to not be sticky) and it’s been great. I would give Advance high marks for that. When professionals come over to do handywork jobs or whatever, they always comment how great my cabinets look and other than knowing they were painted, they can’t even tell. If you don’t have one a high-quality nylon brush (not a roller) will get the job done (it’s self-leveling.) applied second coat. It’s help up pretty well so far and I will probably do an update covering my experience with the paint for those used. Sometimes we get lucky. Also, what primer did you use? I had them mix up a dark brown paint, I believe the sheen was satin. Did you use two coats of primer and two coats of paint on all surfaces? Did you finish you project? I’ve been told by BM employees that Advance is great for furniture and I definitely disagree after using it a few times. Hi, I know you wrote this post a couple of years ago so you are probably tired of hearing about it. I cleaned the brick prior to painting, but because it was already newly coated with a flat white paint, I did nothing else to prep the surface. I could see how you would have issues with it chipping. I sanded the cabinets lightly, primed with a Zinser 123 primer. What was the best paint to water ratio you found? I used the advance primer 2 coats with more than enough cure time in between (over two weeks). The doors and drawers started chipping almost immediately. The finish looked great. All were sprayed with a Fugi 4 system and primed with BIN. I had 33 doors/drawers. I’ll do my best to respond to those . Was it white or a light color? I’ve recently used Benjamin Moore’s Advance, white gloss. It does take longer to dry before recoat (16 hours.) When it comes to spraying using an airless sprayer DO NOT USE AN GRACO (FFLP 212) tip!!!!! Traditional milk paint, which come in powder form and you mix up, is something that can be mixed into a thin form and be transparent and used as a wash, but General Finishes Milk paint (which I mentioned in this post) is an acrylic paint. High opacity, excellent flowing and self leveling qualities, dries quickly allowing to apply several coats within a couple of hours, low odor. Even then, it doesn’t cure well. ADVANCE® WATERBORNE INTERIOR ALKYD PAINT $ 27.99 – $ 76.99. So needless to say, I’ll not be trying the Advanced on any furniture pieces but I’d use it in a heartbeat on interior trim. thannks! Matte finishes absorb light, meaning they have little to no sheen. I need to paint new oak kitchen cabinets WHITE. Sounds as if you sanded the primer in the first coat of paint with a fine grit sanding block, then wiped down with denatured alcohol/water. When Benjamin Moore came out with their new Advance paint, we really wanted to try it. I sell paint for a living and wanted to give out some knowledge of paint. It’s like trying to sand unhardened glue! I painted my kitchen cabinets two years ago, and they still look flawless. I was determined to spend the money an expensive paint, in order to obtain a great outcome, and initially I was looking to buy General Finishes, but the sales person recommended Benjamin Moore Advanced as a better paint for cabinets. Being the ridiculous perfectionist I chose to paint the insides and out of each drawer and cabinet. Benjamin Moore® is an American paint brand known for their superior quality paints, loved by professional painters and consumers alike. It also provides a tough finish that stands up to repeated washing. My paint store guys told me Advance is not recommended to spray! The paint won’t stick, and eventually, it will chip or orange peel. A year later it is still kind of tacky and sitting in the garage. Each type provides a number of different options to ensure we always have the perfect paint for you and your outdoor project. I see lot of folks like this at the home depot site CabinetCoat and you don’t have to use a primer. Alex I am curious what kind of climate do you live in? If you try it or have tried it let everyone know your experience in the comments . I’m a professional finisher and it’s all I use for topcoats. It was completed in November and any movement of the wood (we live in KS so hot/cold) caused the planets in the doors to crack at the connections. Within a few months it had numerous nicks and dings. Almost every customer I have sold this product to that followed the directions has returned to either tell us how pleased they were, buy more for a different product, or has referred friends and family to purchase the product themselves. Next up white base or just pure white, has about 70% to 90% white added. Would anyone recommend applying a coat of poly over top of the Advance to avoid any of the issues people have been having? We used a sprayer and sprayed it thin. It’s fun to apply, going on smoothly and easily. I followed the salesperson’s advice and used the advance primer (2 coats, applied at least 16 hours apart) and then several thin coats of the paint also waiting at least 16 hours between coats. I am sick at the prospect of having to redo all my efforts. Leigh Adding a tiny bit of water seemed to help. If the primer does not coat evenly — guess what? If you’re painting furniture, consider how the piece is used and whether you can wait to let the paint cure properly. Update: I have since shared my current thoughts on painting furniture with Benjamin Moore Advance. Here is the system that we use that we’ve been successful with…. There are other paints and finishes available that offer superior quality (in my opinion). If you do not allow the first layer cure time you will have tacky issues. I just sand, apply a dot of primer on any of the base wood that is exposed and follow the same methodology with applying, drying, sanding, applying 2nd coat. My issues are bubbles in the paint. Some people may not be concerned with the little spots of wear I saw on this piece, but as someone who refinishes and sells pieces I’m not willing to continue using this paint and take chances on the quality of the finish. Their capacity to hold a large volume of paint makes the job go quickly. It will appear as someone tossed sand into your paint job. dried 24 hours. Alkyd is the resin of old school oil based paint. I have used Advance only once to repaint a bathroom cabinet. So much so that I never even sold the piece that I used the paint on. No, milk paint is not transparent unless you water it down or use thin coats.

Mi Tv Extended Warranty Flipkart, Wows Unique Commanders, Mountain Home To Boise, Duke Public Policy Independent Study, Ni In Japanese, Captivated Lyrics Hillsong, Moonlight Oscar Winner Crossword,